Wondering what actually happens when Clay Plano Drainage Company puts in a French drain? This post shows what a typical French drain job looks like from start to finish, using a made-up Plano yard so you can follow each stage.
What’s the yard in this example?
Picture a two-story house in central Plano with a back yard that slopes gently toward a wood fence. A strip of lawn along that fence stays soft for days after every storm, and the grass there has thinned out.
The imagined owners have tried skipping the sprinklers in that zone. The strip still stays wet after rain, and in late spring it never quite dries between storms. That is why they call.
Stage one: the call and the photos
The call is short. The owners tell us where the house is, where the wet strip sits and how long it stays wet. We ask for photos or a short video from the last storm, and for a photo of each downspout.
Those photos show us two things before we arrive: whether water is running across the surface during the storm, and whether any roof water lands near the wet strip.
Stage two: the first visit
On the visit we walk the yard with the owners and work out three things before we draw anything: where the water comes from, whether it is in the soil or on top, and where it can legally leave.
- The soil probe. We push a probe into the strip and into dry lawn nearby. Here, the strip is wet well below the surface while the rest of the yard is firm, so the water is held in the soil.
- The source. The back lot is a little higher, and a downspout at the back corner drains onto a splash block near the strip.
- The fall. We measure the fall from the strip, along the side yard, to the front lawn.
- The outlet. The front lawn is open and lower than the back, so a pop-up emitter there can let the water out on the street side of the lot.
Houston Black clay, which covers central Plano, takes in only about 0.03 inches of water an hour. That slow soil is why the strip stays wet, and why the stone zone in the trench matters.
Stage three: the written estimate
The owners get a written estimate built from that visit. It shows the route on a sketch, the run lengths, which parts are perforated and which solid, the outlet and what gets put back.
In this example the route is about 60 feet: perforated pipe along the fence, then solid pipe down the side yard to the emitter.
- The drain. At our typical range of $25 to $60 per foot, a 60-foot run would come to $1,500 to $3,600. That figure is illustrative only.
- The downspout. The back-corner downspout gets its own solid line on the estimate, priced as downspout drainage.
Had the outlet needed to be at the curb, the estimate would show the City of Plano’s Engineering Permit for right-of-way work as its own line, and we would arrange the permit as part of the job.
Stage four: locates and the painted route
Before anyone digs, we call Texas811 so the gas, power, water and cable lines get marked with flags and paint. Then we paint our own route in white.
We walk that white line with the owners. It shows where the trench, the cleanouts and the emitter will sit, and it is the moment to raise a bed they want to keep, a tree root or a sprinkler head in the way.
Stage five: the dig
The trench stays narrow. The work moves in this order:
- Sod. We cut the sod in strips along the route and set it aside.
- Soil. We dig to the measured fall and keep the soil on tarps instead of the lawn.
- Silt control. Silt controls go in so loose soil stays out of the street and storm inlets while the trench is open.
- Sprinkler lines. Any sprinkler line the trench crosses is noted and repaired once the drain is in.
What goes into the trench
We line the trench with filter fabric, lay washed drainage stone, then set perforated pipe along the fence. From the wet zone on, the pipe changes to solid, so the water doesn’t soak back into the ground on its way out.
- Cleanout. One goes in where the line turns at the corner, so the line can be flushed later.
- Downspout. The back-corner downspout gets its own solid line beside the drain.
- The wrap. More stone covers the pipe, and the fabric folds over the top, so clay fines stay out of the stone.
Stage six: the water test
Before any backfill, we run water into the top of the system and watch it come out of the pop-up emitter in the front lawn. If water stands anywhere along the trench, we fix the fall while it is still open.
This is the step that tells you the drain works before it is buried. The guide to what happens during drainage installation explains why the test comes before backfill.
Stage seven: putting the yard back
We backfill the trench, lay the sod strips back along the route and repair the sprinkler lines we crossed. The soil from the tarps goes back in the trench, and the tarps come up with it.
Then comes the walk-through. We show the owners the route, the cleanout and the emitter, and how to flush the line with a garden hose if it ever slows.
What the owners do afterward
Very little. They keep the emitter lid clear of grass clippings and leaves, keep beds and mulch out of the route, and flush through the cleanout if water starts to slow. Our post on fall leaves clogging yard drains covers the leaf season.
That is the whole job in this example. Your yard will have its own source, route and outlet, which is why every job starts with a visit.
- Price. See the French drain cost guide.
- The trench. See French drain installation and French drains in clay soil.
- The outlet. See where yard drain water can go.
To book a visit, call (469) 551-8518 or use the form below.